A surfer from the concrete jungle breeds a disparity of interests.
Matt Chojnacki has grown up around the beaches and concrete jungle of Sydney. Hot rods, pomade, rockabilly and punk music are a strong influence on his lifestyle, but for 12 years he has been frequenting the points further north to score good quality waves, catch up with mates and test new boards.
This is an edit from one afternoon in Noosa Heads, Queensland. The waves were fun and the board of choice is a replica of what Bob McTavish and friends were shaping and riding in the same waves some 46 years ago.
Here Matt demonstrates his natural approach to logging in an ‘involvement’ style, based upon the performance surfing from 1966.
The boards Matt rode on this trip were shaped by Bob himself, the nostalgic value of such a quiver surfing these waves is simply inspiring.
Follow ‘The Waxhead Diaries’ for more on Matt’s diverse approach to his surfing lifestyle.
film and Edit – Andrew Gough
andrewgough.blogspot.com
Saints go marching in – Louis Armstrong
Matt Chojnacki
